Tip #1: Use power strips for electrical appliances such as TVs, VCRs, DVDs, printers etc.Turn off the power strip when the device is off to prevent phantom electrical loads. Phantom electrical loads can account for up to 6-8% of your total electricity used. "Smart" power stripes are available to automatically turn off devices when not in use.
Tip # 2:Don’t leave cell phone chargers and any box type charger plugged into an outlet when it is not charging its intended device.These chargers consume electricity any time they are plugged in.
Tip #3:When it is time to replace your appliances look for the ENERGY STAR Label.These appliances provide significant energy savings over non-ENERGY STAR.You can find information on appliance energy consumption at www.eere.energy.gov/consumer and www.energystar.gov
Tip #4:Refrigerators have the largest annual electrical consumption of any appliance in your home.Over and under type refrigerators consume less energy than side by side.Conduct the recommended annual maintenance for cleaning the coils to keep your refrigerator running as efficiently as possible.
Tip #5:Adjust your refrigerator temperature.Buy a small refrigerator thermometer and adjust your fridge to between 38-42 degree F and your freezer to 0-5 Degree F.If you have an economy or power saving switch in your fridge use it.At times during humid weather you may have to place it to normal for a short period of time.
Tip #6: Front loading washers save more energy than top loading washers.They use less energy to wash your cloths and get more water out of your cloths during spin which means less work for the dryer and more energy saved.
Tip #7:Use cold temperature for washing cloths.Many detergents are designed for cold water and the use of hot water is not required.This saves a substantial amount of energy.
Tip #8:A fully loaded dishwasher can use 30 percent less water than if you washed the dishes by hand.Consider using the “rinse and hold” feature for partial loads and then conduct a full wash when the dishwasher is full.
Tip #9: Use window air conditioners that are ENERGY STAR and the right sized for the room it is cooling.Window air conditioners that are too large for the room are not efficient due to shorter run times.The right sized air conditioner will run almost continuously on a hot day.Go to www.cooloff.org for a work sheet for proper sizing for a specific room.This is usually better than most manufactures recommendations. If possible install window air conditioners on the North side of the room or structure.Window air conditioners that are out of the sun consume approximately 10% less energy than if exposed to the sun.
Tip #10: Consider a “Tankless” water heater, particularly if your water heater needs replacing.Normal storage tank type water heaters have continuous energy losses through the jacket 24 hours a day.Tankless or “On Demand” water heaters do not store hot water so these losses are avoided and are up to 20% more efficient.Additionally they are smaller and provide and endless supply of hot water.Be sure to look for the ENERGY STAR label and a “direct vent” type.
Tip #11:Turn off your screen saver.Screen savers were developed to prevent screens from burning out pixel areas during periods of inactivity.With today’s technology it is far better to blank the screen or to put the whole computer in standby mode. Many screen savers even prevent the power management software from operating, so it’s best to completely deactivate all screen savers.
Tip #12:Use sleep or hibernate mode for your computer.If you are not using your computer for a while during the work day place it in sleep or hibernate modes.Microsoft windows has power savings options under; control panel – power options – max energy savings.You can also set custom time delay settings for your computer to automatically go to a power saving mode after a certain period of inactivity.At the end of the day turn your computer off.
Tip #13:Buy ENERGY STAR.When it is time to replace appliances or home electronics look for the ENERGY STAR label.ENERGY STAR appliances and electronics use significantly less energy than non-ENERGY STAR appliances.Be aware that all ENERGY STAR appliances are not equal and some offer significantly more energy savings than others.Also be aware that the ENERGY STAR certification is for appliances with similar design features.An example would be side-by-side refrigerators and over and under refrigerators.The ENERGY STAR certification for side-by-side refrigerators is only in comparison to other side-by-side fridges even though over and under refrigerators are much more energy efficient.
Tip #14:Maintain your appliances.Almost every appliance needs regular maintenance to operate efficiently.Keep your refrigerator and air conditioning coils clean.Regularly replace and / or clean the filters for your heating and air conditioning system.Have your furnace and boiler tuned up and cleaned per manufacturer’s recommendations.Ensure the lint is cleaned from the dryer and dryer vent regularly.This not only helps your dryer to run more efficiently but can reduce the risk of fire from lint build up. Tank style water heaters may need periodic flushing to prevent build up of sediment.
Tip #15:Run ceiling fans smartly.Ceiling fans are a great way to feel cooler and avoiding turning on the air conditioning.However, when you are not in the room turn them off.Ceiling fans do not change the temperature of the room but rather make you feel more comfortable at the current temperature so they do no good when you are not there.
Tip #16:Insulate your tank style water heater with an insulation blanket to reduce “jacket losses.”
Tip #17:Set back your water heater to 120 Degrees F.This will reduce “Jacket” and pipe losses and help prevent unintentional scalding.
Tip #18:Insulate your hot water pipes.Many hot water pipes are copper which is one of the best conductors for heat transfer.Allot of energy is lost from your pipes between the water heater and the spigot.Insulating your pipes will pay for itself in a very short period of time.
Tip #19: Consider a Solar water heater.Though the upfront costs are significant this can be a good long term investment and have significant impact on reducing your carbon footprint.Additionally there may be rebates from you local utility and state or federal tax credits to help defray the cost.If you are installing a solar hot water system to replace hot water that comes from your boiler, consult with your heating contractor about modifying the controls of your boiler.Otherwise your boiler may wastefully continue to run at a setting designed to create hot water, even in the summer time when no heat is needed.
Tip #20:Set back your thermostat.Better yet install a programmable thermostat that automatically sets back the temperature when you are asleep or not home.Programmable thermostats have been proven to save approximately 5% on your annual heating bill if you program them to setback your inside temperature from 70 Degree to 64 degrees for an 8 hour period at night.These savings jump to over 9% if you have both a night setback and a daytime setback for periods that no one is home.
Tip #21:Seal your chimney.For most fireplaces there is little or no heat gain for your house when burning a fire.Many actually cause you to loose overall energy when in use from sucking out the warm air from you home which is replaced by cold outside air infiltrating in.When not in use keep your damper closed.If you don’t use your fireplace for significant periods of time install a “chimney balloon” that seals the flue much better than the damper alone.
Tip #22:Install a Whole House Fan.A whole house fan can significantly reduce the need for air conditioning and provide significant energy savings if operated properly.It is best used by running it for a short time after the sun sets to ventilate the warm air from your house and again for a short time in the early morning.Then with your house cool keep the windows shut during the day to keep the warm air out.It is imperative that the whole house fan be a quality unit that is insulated and sealed when not in operation.A low quality, or poorly installed fan can cause significant heat loss in the winter time.
Tip #23:Seal your air ducts.Leakage of your air duct system can be the largest single source of energy waste in your home.This is mainly for air ducts that are in “unconditioned” spaces of your home such as attic, crawlspaces, and unheated basements.For every cubic foot of heated or cooled air that escapes outside your home’s thermal envelope, and equal amount of air enters to maintain balance, air that now must be conditioned, magnifying your energy loss.Seal you ducts with “duct mastic” and seal every seam and joint.It is inexpensive and easy to apply if you can get access to your ducts.DO NOT use duct tape.Duct tape will dry out and fall off in a short period of time.If in doubt have your air ducts tested by a qualified energy auditor.
Tip #24:Insulate your air ducts.In many homes we see attics that are well insulated to R45+ yet there is ductwork in the attic with only R-4 insulation that are carrying heated or cooled air.Air ducts that are outside your building’s thermal envelope should first be sealed.After sealing apply as much additional insulation as practical to reduce energy losses.
Tip #25:Have your central air conditioning appropriately serviced.Proper charging of the refrigerant levels in you central air conditioning system is critical for efficient operation.Both under AND over charging the system can lead to decreased efficiencies.When new, or right after the ducts are sealed, the air conditioning system or heat pump should be checked for refrigerant charge and airflow using manufacturer approved methods.Once it is running properly nothing more needs to be done to the refrigerant level unless a problem occurs.Many technicians when conducting periodic maintenance will want to “top off” the refrigerant levels and charge you for it.If your system has been operating normally be wary of this.This not only will this cost you extra but can lead to over charging the system with a reduction in the systems efficiency.
Tip #26:Consider upgraded controls for your heat pump or boiler.For many heat pumps and boilers efficiencies can be improved by having new control devices installed.Such devices include outdoor “cut out” thermostats that make your systems operate more efficiently under specific weather conditions.Boilers can operate more efficiently by tuning the “cold start” and “post-purge” functions of the system with specific controls.For boilers these control systems work best with low temperature delivery systems such as radiant floor heat as apposed to base board hot water.Consult with a qualified and reputable heating contractor about the benefits of these control systems.
Tip #27:Install the right size system.When replacing a heating or air conditioning system it is imperative that the system be appropriately sized for the application.A heating or air conditioning system that is too large for the structure not only will cost significantly more but will result in much lower efficiencies than advertised.
Tip #28:Seal excess air leaks.Excess air infiltration is a major source of energy loss in residential buildings.In fact 40% or more of your heating and cooling energy can be wasted due excess air leaks.Sealing around windows, doors and electrical outlets can significantly reduce the excess infiltration.However, many buildings have design or construction flaws that create large air leakage “pathways”.Consider have a calibrated blower door test done to quantify the air leakage of your home.Better yet have a thermal imaging inspection completed along with the calibrated door test to not only quantify the air leakage but to locate each and every one.
Tip #29:Install gaskets and / or air tight cover plates for your electrical outlets and switches located on an outside wall.Many home improvements stores sell simple gaskets that go behind your outlet or switch cover plates to help block excess air leakage.Additionally new “air sealing” cover plates can be installed that have gaskets built in and other features to reduce air leakage.
Tip #30:Seal recessed light fixtures.Recessed light fixtures installed in flat or sloped ceilings that are also the thermal envelope of your home can be a major source of energy loss.Many of these fixtures are not “air tight” rated and allow your conditioned air to escape to the outside.Some fixtures can be capped from above (inside the attic) and some can not.It is important to understand the rating of these fixtures to determine if they are approved for contact with insulation (IC Rated) or not.One of the easiest fixes is to install an airtight compact fluorescent insert into the existing fixture.
Tip #31:Seal “cantilevers.”Many buildings have “overhangs” where a second floor extends over the first floor or where the first floor extends over the foundation.Historically these areas are significant weak points in the thermal envelope and are a source of air infiltration into the floor cavity of the living area.Look for gaps or leaks on the underside of the sheathing that can be filled and caulked.Better yet remove the sheathing and completely block the openings between the joists with rigid foam board foamed into place.This is to prevent any air flow from the outside into the inside floor cavity area.Then fully insulate the cantilever, replace the sheathing and seal all penetrations.
Tip #32:Seal the foundation gap.The “mudsill” usually is a pressure treated board that sits on the concrete foundations.Many times this board is shimmed to create a level surface for the rest of your building to be built on.Also the concrete foundation it sits on is not perfectly flat thus creating a gap for air to penetrate into your basement, crawlspace, or conditioned area.This can be a significant source of air infiltration and energy loss.However no air sealing should be undertaken of an area that has combustion equipment (furnace, boiler, water heater etc) unless there is an adequate air supply for these appliances.If in doubt consult with a qualified appliance technician or certified energy auditor.
Tip #33:Seal your knee walls:As with cantilevers knee walls are a known thermal weak point in the thermal envelope of residential buildings.Most times the joist cavities directly below the knee walls are not sealed allowing outside air to exchange with the conditioned air in the floor cavity.Refer to the diagram in this report about sealing knee walls.
Tip #34:Insulate and air seals your attic hatch.Attic hatches can be a significant source of energy loss in your building.You don’t feel drafts from attic hatches since they are higher up in your building structure and this is where your conditioned air is leaking out.Most people think that if 98% of there attic is fully insulated with only 2% non insulated, such as with an attic hatch, then their ceiling is achieving 98% of its insulating performance.In reality that 2% of uninsulated area accounts for so much heat loss that it can reduce the total R value of the ceiling as a whole by 40% or more.
Tip #35:Add rigid foam board to outside walls.When it is time to replace the siding on your house consider adding a layer of rigid foam board.Add the thickest foam board you can without having to significantly modify the trim on your windows and doors.Normally this will be about 1” of rigid foam board.It is imperative that this foam board be installed correctly.It must be appropriately sealed to the surface to not allow any outside air to freely flow behind it, negating its thermal performance.Additionally the joints should be taped and sealed.Consideration also needs to be given to the type of foam board used.In our cold climates walls are normally designed to dry to the outside due to a vapor barrier being on the inside of the wall assembly.In this case foam board that is “semi-permeable” to water vapor should be used to allow water vapor inside the wall assembly to dry to the outside.Foil faced rigid foam board in this application and climate can cause moisture to become trapped inside the wall assembly if there is a vapor barrier on the inside.Consult with a qualified contractor or energy auditor if there are any doubts.
Tip #36:Add rigid foam board to concrete basement walls.Concrete is a poor insulator (about R 0.15 per inch), but many homes have basements with concrete walls that they are trying to heat or at least keep at a moderate temperature.Significant energy savings can be achieved by insulating these surfaces with rigid foam board adhered directly to the concrete.If your walls become damp on occasions leave a 6” gap at the bottom to allow the wall to dry.Some local codes require that certain types of rigid foam board be covered with drywall or other ignition barrier for fire protection.Check with your local code official in this case.
Tip #37:Insulate your basement ceiling.Most people think “heat flows up” when in fact warm air does rise but heat energy will transmit in all directions.If you have a cold basement used only for storage and that you do not plan to heat, decide whether to insulate the walls or the basement ceiling.Insulating the basement ceiling prevents unnecessary heat loss from the floor above. Tip #38: Insulate your floor over a crawlspace.As with cold basements the floor area above the crawlspace should be insulated.
Tip #39: Insulate your crawlspace.In the past it was common to “ventilate” crawlspaces.However this was found to be more detrimental then good.Ventilation allows warm moist air to enter your cool crawlspace area in the summer.Warm moist air in a cool area leads to condensation, condensation can lead to mold and rot.It is better to seal your crawlspace, insulate the crawlspace walls and place a vapor barrier on the dirt floor to prevent moisture from coming up from the ground.This vapor barrier should be sealed to the walls for a complete seal.You should still insulate the floor above but now your crawlspace has become buffer zone that is much warmer than the outside temperature.The warmer you can keep the crawlspace the less energy you loose from this floor assembly to the crawlspace in the winter.
Tip #40:Add Storm windows & Doors.Most older single pane windows can perform nearly as well as new double pane windows with the installation of quality storm windows at only a fraction of the cost of replacement windows.Storm windows can reduce heat loss through windows by 25% to 50%. The same applies for doors and storm doors.
Tip #41:Beware of miracle products.There seems to be new products with enhanced energy saving properties advertised every day.Many of these products were later tested and found not to have nearly the insulation properties as advertised.Be wary of many of these claims and ask for data from independent laboratory tests before buying into such products.
Tip #42:Use the proper weather stripping.When weatherizing windows and doors avoid the “stick on” type of weather stripping.Most of these products come off in a short period of time.Use the appropriate weather stripping material for the job that is nailed or stapled into place to provide a permanent application.
Tip #43: Use Compact Florescent Light (CFL) bulbs with the ENERGY STAR label.CFLs require about 20% of the energy to produce the same amount of light as incandescent bulbs.
Tip #44:Install heat traps on the hot and cold pipes of your water heater.Some new water heaters have built in traps.
Tip #45:Consider installing a drain waste heat recovery system.A recent DOE study showed energy savings can be up to 30% for water heating using such a system.
Tip #46:Use heavy duty clear plastic sheet on a frame or taped to your window frame during cold winter months.The plastic must be sealed tightly to reduce air infiltration.
Tip #47:If you have torchiere fixtures with halogen lamps, consider replacing them with compact florescent torchieres.Compact florescent torchieres use 60% to 80% less energy and do not get as hot as halogen lamps.
Tip #48:For natural gas appliances, look for blue flames; yellow flames indicate the gas is burning inefficiently and an adjustment may be needed.Consult the manufacturer or your local utility.
Tip #49:Place your room air conditioner on the North side of the house.A unit operating in the shade uses as much as 10% less electricity than the same one operating in the sun.
Tip #50:Have your heating system serviced regularly to maintain top efficiency.Oil burning system should be serviced once a year.Consult the manufacturers guidelines.
Energy Myths
Myth #1: It is better to keep your computer running for longer computer life.
Fact: This may have been true years ago when the hard drives of computers had a limited life.Cycling does not harm computers of today.Using sleep or hibernation mode also saves significant energy and gets you up and running faster.Screen savers can actually cause the computer to consume more energy.
Myth #2:Houses have to “Breathe”.
Fact:Occupants need to breathe good air quality and the assemblies of a house need to dry.Leaky house can actually result in condensation on the building materials as the warm moist air leaks to the outside in the winter.This can cause mold and rot in the building assembly.The air that occupants breathe inside homes without mechanical ventilation comes from, and is filtered through, all the nooks and crannies of the building assembly.This process of air exchange can add mold and contaminants to the inside air reducing overall air quality inside the structure.The best method from an energy efficiency and air quality standpoint is to “build tight and ventilate right” With this method buildings are built as tight as possible and air exchange is controlled with mechanical ventilation.Mechanical ventilation automatically exchanges fresh outside filtered air with stale inside air at a specific rate designed for the structure and number of occupants.In this process the air exchange goes through a heat exchanger so that the heat energy from the exhaust air is exchanged with the incoming cold air.Air quality and relative humidity is optimized both for the health of the occupants and the structure.The building assemblies are designed with vapor and air barriers and to slowly diffuse any moisture entering the assembly to the outside in a controlled manner.
Myth #3:Power surges from turning on electronic devices use more energy than if the device was just left on.
Fact:For most lights and appliances the additional energy used from turning the device on is equal to just a few seconds of normal run time.
Myth #4:Setting back the temperature of the house for a short time will result in more energy to bring the temperature back up.It is better to keep a constant temperature all the time.
Fact:Unless you have a heating system that has an electrical back up system that uses back up electrical heating elements for high demand situations, you always save money be setting the temperature back for any length of time.Energy is saved in two ways, first the amount of energy transmitting through any assembly of your home is purely a function of the difference between the inside and outside temperatures and the R value of the assembly.Lowering the inside temperature in the wintertime reduces this difference and the energy transmission through the assembly.Secondly, combustion heating systems are more efficient during longer run times.Heating systems waste a certain amount of energy at initial start up and shutdown thus one single run time is more efficient than several shorter run cycles.
Myth #5:Duct tape is a good product for sealing ducts.
Fact:Duct tape should never be used to seal air ducts.Duct tape has been proven to dry out and fall off after a short period of time. Duct mastic is the proper sealant.
Myth #6:My heating system dries out my house in the winter time. Fact:The dryness is cause by the cold dry air entering and the warm moist air leaking out.Heating systems have no impact on the amount of moisture in the air it heats.The only exceptions are if the home has leaky air ducts.Under certain situations leaky air ducts can cause dry outside air to enter while pumping out the warm humid air to the outside.
Myth #7:Even though my attic hatch is uninsulated it is only 2% of the ceiling area so it has very little impact on my energy loss. Fact:A 2% gap of the insulation level of a building assembly can cause so much energy loss that the total R value of the entire assembly can be reduced by as much as 40%.Defects in the thermal boundary are not linearly proportional they are exponentially proportional when it comes to energy losses.
Myth #8:Heat Rises.
Fact: Warm air does rise but heat energy will transmit in all directions.Warm air rising is “convection” whereas heat flowing through a structure is “Transmission.”Heat loss by transmission is in all directions but always from warm to cold.The rate that heat is transmitted is a function of the differential temperatures on either side of an assembly and the thermal resistance of an assembly (R value).
Myth #9:Geothermal heat pumps provide free and clean energy.
Fact:Most geothermal heating systems have a coefficient of performance (COP) in the range of 3, meaning it takes one unit of energy to produce 3 units of heat.The problem is that the one unit of energy that is used is electricity.Electricity is neither free nor clean.Electricity is the most costly and far more polluting per unit of energy when compared to gas, propane and heating oil.For comparison a conventional heating system that is 87% efficient and burning home heating oil will deliver 120,930 BTUs of heat per gallon.Burning this one gallon of heating oil results in 16.1 pounds of CO emissions.A geothermal heating system with a COP of 3 uses 11.82 kilowatts of electricity to deliver the same 120,930 BTUs of heat into the home.11.82 kilowatts is responsible for 15.4 pounds of CO emissions and costs $2.07 at a utility rate of $0.175 per kilowatt (NHEC Rates).If the geothermal system has electrical back up heating coils to supply the required heat during high demand situations, the comparison becomesworse for geothermal.Geothermal heating systems with a COP of 3 compare favorably with high efficiency heating systems.However the extra cost of such systems could probably go to better energy saving features that provides greater returns on investment.